electronic flash is quite useful for photomicrography and in our German speaking forums people are
also highly interested in sharing experiences with other members concerning this topic. So i posted my
setup there, however, it`s in German. Maybe it might be helpful for our community too, i hope.
There are lot of pictures, and it might take a while to load all, size is about 500k.
I made a very simple, rudimental html site with the identical content here :
http://www.online-club.de/~rp11141/flas ... setup.html in English language.
I hope, you like it. To get back, please use your browser-buttons, its just plain text, nothing else.
Thanks,
Gerd
(The link is : http://f25.parsimony.net/forum62175/messages/15275.htm)
Thanks,
Gerd
My electronic flash setup , modified
Moderators: MacroMike, nzmacro, Ken Ramos, twebster, S. Alden
My electronic flash setup , modified
Last edited by Gerd on Mon Mar 06, 2006 1:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Well Gerd, I could not read but a word here and there but your images suggest that not only does one need to understand the optical properites of microscopy but the electronics as well.
Site Admin.
Kenneth Ramos
Rutherfordton, North Carolina
Kens Microscopy
Reposts of my images within the galleries are welcome, as are constructive critical critiques.
Kenneth Ramos
Rutherfordton, North Carolina
Kens Microscopy
Reposts of my images within the galleries are welcome, as are constructive critical critiques.
-
- Posts: 1200
- Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 10:50 am
- Location: Issaquah, WA USA
Gerd... do you have any concern about the heat output from the flash tube damaging the LED?
I will soon be doing something similar, but had thought that it might be necessary to keep the LED some distance from the flash tube. It would appear that you only have about 3mm or so separation between the two.
Charlie
I will soon be doing something similar, but had thought that it might be necessary to keep the LED some distance from the flash tube. It would appear that you only have about 3mm or so separation between the two.
Charlie
Hello Charles, no, i do not have any problems with the small distance
between LED and flash tube. There are 2 mm distance between them and
the LEDs have no problems until now. I have not been testing the DMLS setup often
until now, there only is a experience of about 1 year working with the separate
lighthousing of the DMLB. Mechanics concerning the distance between LED and flash
are similar, the flash installed in the DMLS is less powerful (guide number 30).
When watching Paramecium bursaria with the 100 Oil
immersion in DIC, i shot lots of pictures with nearly no delay and with about 40% of max.
flash energy (guide number 45) due to the DIC contrast requirements. That were about 200 pics in 20 minutes.
And there was any noticeable temperature increase on the LED surface after that.
I hope, that helps. Please let me know about your experiences with your
new flash setup. Thank you,
Gerd
between LED and flash tube. There are 2 mm distance between them and
the LEDs have no problems until now. I have not been testing the DMLS setup often
until now, there only is a experience of about 1 year working with the separate
lighthousing of the DMLB. Mechanics concerning the distance between LED and flash
are similar, the flash installed in the DMLS is less powerful (guide number 30).
When watching Paramecium bursaria with the 100 Oil
immersion in DIC, i shot lots of pictures with nearly no delay and with about 40% of max.
flash energy (guide number 45) due to the DIC contrast requirements. That were about 200 pics in 20 minutes.
And there was any noticeable temperature increase on the LED surface after that.
I hope, that helps. Please let me know about your experiences with your
new flash setup. Thank you,
Gerd
-
- Posts: 1200
- Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 10:50 am
- Location: Issaquah, WA USA
Gerd... thanks for the reply. When the new Luxeon K2 LED's become available I'll get serious about my "project". Since I now use an Olympus BHS stand for the DIC I've had to re-think my flash. For now, I've set up a "quick-and-dirty" method that places a pellicle beamsplitter at 45 degrees under the condenser. The flash is directed into this beamsplitter. It actually works quite well, but a more permanent solution would be better. Hopefully it will not be too difficult since the 100 watt Olympus lamphouse is at the rear and is very "open" to the outside. I had been thinking of placing the flash tube at the current bulb position and directing the LED illumination to the "bulb position" via condensers. It would be much easier to place the LED by the flash tube as you have done. Good to hear that "flash" heat has not been a problem for the LED!
Hello Gerd,
Very nicely done!
As you may know, I've been working with the Luxeon LEDs and have taken a slightly different approach, but am impressed with your method.
How are you controlling the two lights - do you manually turn the LED off before firing the flash; how is the flash tripped?
As usual with you, very, very nice work!
All the best,
Mike
Very nicely done!
As you may know, I've been working with the Luxeon LEDs and have taken a slightly different approach, but am impressed with your method.
How are you controlling the two lights - do you manually turn the LED off before firing the flash; how is the flash tripped?
As usual with you, very, very nice work!
All the best,
Mike
"Nil satis nisi optimum"
Hello Gerd,
I assume you don't have any dilution of the flash speed by having the LED modeling light stay on? I've been working with another fellow who is designing a circuit whereby the LED will be either shut off, and/or used as the flash, (timing can be in the <ms range) then after the flash the LED will come back to the original level. If it works it should provide an almost seamless view.
It's great there are a number of people working with this technology and I have no doubt the end result will be an improvement in our ability to make photomicrogaphs.
Here's to experimentation, and to amateurs, who by definition are those who do something for sheer pleasure, not for money!
All the best,
Mike
I assume you don't have any dilution of the flash speed by having the LED modeling light stay on? I've been working with another fellow who is designing a circuit whereby the LED will be either shut off, and/or used as the flash, (timing can be in the <ms range) then after the flash the LED will come back to the original level. If it works it should provide an almost seamless view.
It's great there are a number of people working with this technology and I have no doubt the end result will be an improvement in our ability to make photomicrogaphs.
Here's to experimentation, and to amateurs, who by definition are those who do something for sheer pleasure, not for money!
All the best,
Mike
"Nil satis nisi optimum"
Hello Mike,
yes, that is correct, there is no influence to the flash by the LED.
When i shot a photo at current illumination with the LED but the flash doesn't start
(because i forgot to switch it on....), the photo stays black, anything to see but darkness in DIC and Ph.
In Brightfield i have to use a grey filter, 16% transmission. Otherwise the flash is much too bright
and pics are always overexposed. So i can't remark any influence to the resulting pic if the LED stays on.
Flash duration, and with it the brightness of it, is regulated or better adjusted manually, no
TTL regulation by the camera. You have to take some test shots and then you have one adjustment
for this contrast method and objective combination to take as much photos as you want.
Kind regards,
Gerd
yes, that is correct, there is no influence to the flash by the LED.
When i shot a photo at current illumination with the LED but the flash doesn't start
(because i forgot to switch it on....), the photo stays black, anything to see but darkness in DIC and Ph.
In Brightfield i have to use a grey filter, 16% transmission. Otherwise the flash is much too bright
and pics are always overexposed. So i can't remark any influence to the resulting pic if the LED stays on.
Flash duration, and with it the brightness of it, is regulated or better adjusted manually, no
TTL regulation by the camera. You have to take some test shots and then you have one adjustment
for this contrast method and objective combination to take as much photos as you want.
Kind regards,
Gerd